Soak overnight for best results. In addition, a rather important discovery in the way of air nozzles for your air compressor There is the regular everyday air nozzle used to blow things off to get rid of unwanted residue.
The ones you purchase are generally "safety" nozzles. These nozzles have a center opening for discharge, but also have two holes to each side of the nozzle. This is to prevent damage to YOU from too much pressure against the skin. The closer you get to the work, the more air is vented off to the outside holes. You can purchase non-venting air nozzles that will about double the performance characteristics of the nozzle.
This means if you want ALL the sand, or residue, or whatever out of your work, it will accomplish this. Wear appropriate safety gear and never point any nozzle at your skin. The way I am going to do this build is with a small Parts Washer using Kerosene as the washing agent.
Kerosene, a little pump pressure and a wire brush will really get you all the way there. To get into hard to reach places, a spray can of Engine De-Greaser with a straw should help break everything free. That is all that is necessary to properly clean engine internals, or a combination of all of the above. I like to blow everything off with compressed air to ensure there is nothing hiding anywhere. Finally on the subject of cleaning, this particular build, for me to be happy with it, will also be about restoring the engine to its pristine glory as if it came right out of the factory.
This requires a bit more work, but the satisfaction factor is why I do it, so to not take my fun away, I am sandblasting at 40psi 1 Silica Sand all parts of this engine both internal and external.
There are exceptions for machined surfaces with close tolerances. I do NOT recommend you do the same. Because of the very high risk of introducing sand into your engine, unless you are willing to be very meticulous about removing the sand, do not try this at home. One grain of sand introduced into a cylinder wall, or into moving parts and you are done! Please just admire the work, and think of this final step as a Bridge Too Far!
Since everything in this regard is prior to the machine work, it's also re-cleaned at the machine shop for even better results. Nothing is left to chance. There are many tools required for this job. As we address each system, we will update this list. Where possible I will add a link to a picture of the item.
I just loaded each lifter one at a time into my little kerosene parts cleaner making sure to keep the parts together and not mix them with any of the others. The edge of the retainer may need to be carefully ground down so it is away from the push rod, but it's a very solid fix.
Once the parts are cleaned using Kerosene and a soft brush, I let them soak overnight in Simple Green. This removes all of the petroleum based contaminants and you start off with fresh metal. I used a soft green scotch-brite pad for cleaning, rinsed each part carefully and applied some motor oil to all of the surfaces.
These lifters look like new. Let's put them together. I cannot take pictures and work at the same time when I have oil all over my hands so I will describe the procedure. With oil all over everything, including inside the Lifter Housing, turn the Inner Lifter Barrel upside down and place the ball bearing over the hole, then place the Ball Bearing Cover over the top of it. I like to drip a little oil over this assembly to sort of make everything stick together.
Place the Tension Spring on top of the Ball Bearing cover. Everything should go together just as if it fits perfectly that way. If it doesn't you are doing something wrong. It should be very smooth until you get some hydraulic resistance. Most of the resistance you feel is from air being trapped between the two barrels. With a very small, thin tool I used the plastic straw from a WD40 can push on the ball bearing just a little and you will feel the resistance just BURP away. Keeping just a little downward pressure on the assembly, place it on a flat surface and fill the Inner Lifter Barrel to the top with engine oil.
Place the Push Rod Cap over the top. You will notice this cap will push down below the surface of the Lifter Housing. Place the snap ring in the pliers and holding it over the Push Rod Cap, push down on the assembly using a push rod so that the cap is sufficiently below the surface of the Lifter Housing to get the snap ring to engage.
Keep in mind, most lifters have their own retaining spring that is MUCH easier to install, but I am telling you this just in case you run into what I did! You should have one fully loaded, fully burped, serviceable Hydraulic Lifter.
Now do that 11 more times! When finished, find a nice container that you can use to hold all 12 of them and be able to fill with engine oil over the top of the Lifters as shown. The Push Rods were also in the box. We need to test them to be sure they are perfectly straight and that each end is in the proper condition to be used. To do this, find a perfectly flat surface glass is good and roll them across the table watching for any wandering or out of straight condition.
If they are not straight, do not try to bend them back, just get new ones. Next, carefully inspect each end to make sure the little hole in the center is pronounced and clean. If there is any residue in the center, clean it thoroughly so that its surface is shiny and smooth. I like to go the extra mile and Scotch-Brite the entire length and clean them up really good.
Test for straight one last time. That is the procedure, however, in this case, I was not happy with the condition of about 5 of them.
One had a very significant wear spot that actually reduced the diameter, the others were just slightly bent. Good for me, I had a box of old push rods off these old Stovebolts and found 5 perfect replacements. The Rocker Assembly is one of them. This assembly is bolted on top of the Head and consists of two shafts, the rockers, springs, etc, etc.
This is the assembly you adjust your Valves with. It goes together only ONE correct way. Getting any shim, or spring in the wrong place will lead to excessive wear or premature failure. This assembly is notorious for being very dirty, mostly or completely clogged, and the mounts can be stuck to the rocker shaft.
Just doing this right will make this engine so much better. With all of these parts just sitting in a box, I reconstructed the assembly just to make sure we had all the parts and everything was serviceable.
Then I took the picture on the left so I wouldn't wonder how to put it back together. Lucky for me I have a sitting in the shop and I took the valve cover off just to make sure. This engine is the newer style with a center flow spout that has no second tube coming out and looping back to the bottom of the assembly. This newer style puts all of the upper engine oil flow through the rocker assembly shaft system before dumping it back into the reservoir. As with everything else, I like to clean things very thoroughly before even thinking about a successful assembly.
Too often, cleaning reveals something you need to address. In this case, I will go out of my way to ensure this assembly is perfectly clean. To do this, you really want to take it apart carefully and place things in the proper order. In this case, there are two rocker shafts that meet in the middle.
Once disassembled, these two shafts need to be inspected carefully for excessive wear. It's very common for these rocker shafts to be considerably worn where the rockers move on them. It's worse when there is no oil reaching the rockers. In the case of this engine, both shafts have very little wear and look really good for their age. Do it very slowly and knock off all of the crud with a small screwdriver or something as you go past each hole.
Use your parts washers pump action to push Kerosene through the shaft. Repeat doing this until all that comes out is clean. On the outside, use double O steel wool and make sure the entire surface is perfectly smooth. Don't expect to get all the stains off, but do clean it thoroughly. Don't use an aggressive grinding wire wheel for this. The finish needs to remain as much as possible.
Do NOT sandblast the shaft. It's always a good idea to pick up a Shop Manual for your particular engine. Remember, this is a Car engine. Of course the only difference is Hydraulic Lifters and Cam. There is a nice picture of the Rocker Assembly layout in the manual. The Manual will have most of the information you need to really do this right.
When in doubt and even when you think you know, check the Shop Manual. It will keep you out of trouble! At this point we need to clean up all the Rocker Assembly parts. I first run them through the Kerosene wash, dry them off, then remove the push rod contact assembly from the rocker arms.
This is because we want to thoroughly inspect the ball that comes in contact with the push rods to ensure there is no damage or excessive wear. We also do not want to sandblast that part of the rocker. Once apart, sandblast the rockers but do not hit the valve contact area. I just avoid that but if you want to tape that small area up, that works too.
I use my blast cabinet and 1 Silica Sand to do the job. It's almost the consistency of Flour or Fine Sugar so it is very gentle on the parts. The truth is, it's just to make them look better than new. If you don't have a blast cabinet, a good cleaning with Kerosene then light oil would work just fine.
You want to clean each Rocker thoroughly. Chase the threads, use a piece of safety wire or a paper clip to clean that little oil hole then once blasted or otherwise, take some grit sandpaper and run it through the shaft hole, on the flats of everything, then remember when assembling the shafts oil holes face downward. Once the entire assembly has been cleaned, put it back on the Head to make sure each Rocker contacts the Valves exactly in the middle.
Once you are happy with the whole thing, spray some WD all over the assembly just to keep the rust at bay while everything else is happening. I like to leave about 3 threads showing on the Rockers. This is a good neutral position for the Valve adjustment procedure later on. Once your Rocker Assembly is all nice and clean, set it aside. As this rebuild progresses, you will be glad you addressed these issues before going to the Engine Machine Shop.
Had any lifters or rods been bad or you want a second opinion, you will have this information beforehand. Now the Head is ready to go and get its machine work done.
Let's take a look at the engine next This particular engine was given to me sitting on a pallet, oil pan UP. I transferred it over to one of my wheel dollies so I can move it around. This is a good orientation to start with. Once the Head is removed, you have a nice flat surface to set it down on. First order of business is to remove the Oil Pan. It should be bolted down with exactly 18 screws and 4 Hex Head Bolts. I don't like Screwdrivers for this because of unnecessary pry marks on the Pan.
Use the same Scraper to scrape all of the gasket material and crud off the block. Once the Oil Pan is off you can see the condition of the inside. The Oil Pan is probably the most neglected piece of tin on the truck.
Rocks dent it, the stress warps it, and then a gorilla comes along and over-torques the drain plug. Then, water condensation causes major rust pits and even rust-through. I spent an entire day sandblasting this Oil Pan and inspecting it.
Once it's sandblasted, I took grit sandpaper and sanded the entire pan inside and out. This makes it easy to see cracks, bumps, abnormalities in the surface. In this case, someone didn't want to address the small hole made by a sharp rock and used bondo to cover it. In all, I found 3 holes. One was a rock, another was rust through, and another was an actual crack, about an inch long. Nothing of any surprise really since the pan IS over So, since it's down to the bare metal we can add some weld to seal these holes and cracks up.
First a little body work, smoothing and light hammer and dolly work to get things straight again. Once all the bumps and bruises are smooth again, weld the holes and cracks shut, re-dress the metal, and then it's time for another decision.. There are rust pits and various imperfections. If you follow up all of your metal working the same as if it were part of the truck, it gets rather time consuming. I draw the line with putting bondo on the oil pan because of rocks kicking up and making it look much worse than if you would have just used an Epoxy Primer.
Even then, the least amount of substrate, the better. This ensures the unseen start and finish of it will be addressed too. The rust-through was minor and went pretty smoothly. In this case, I had to address the stripped out Oil Drain Plug. Someone already put an oversize plug in, and it stripped out as well.
Turns out this plug is available and a Dorman product It comes with the nylon gasket as well. This Oil Pan has a metal reinforcement at the Drain Plug that is plenty large enough to handle the size and then the pan is like new!
The way I look at it, this venerable old engine deserves the very best. Let's not get in the habit of cutting corners. With that in mind, there were many rust pits, dents, dings, deep scratches, cracked metal in the Oil Pan, Side Cover and Valve Cover. There was much hammer and dolly work to get them into shape. Once they are sandblasted, you can use sandpaper on a long board to check most of the surface of these parts.
I use a long board for areas I can get to with that, but a short DuraBloc to get in other places, and then if those don't get me there, I do it by hand. We are checking for flat and smooth.
PPG's DPLF came highly recommended for engine tin because it is good for degrees safely and once it's dry, you can apply rattle can Engine Paint right over it. I was not particularly impressed with the condition of the engine sheet metal and it required many hours of work, but doing this in the way I described preserves the tin and makes additional rust virtually impossible.
Very important to NOT introduce possible contaminants into the engine internals. Once the outside is complete and dry, apply motor oil to the inside surfaces letting the oil soak into the metal.
First order of business is to get the Harmonic Balancer off. This is easily done but there is sort of a secret to it. Some of these balancers have been on the engine a long time and you might over-stress your Puller if you don't lightly tap on the edge of the balancer as you are tightening your puller. If you lightly tap the edge, it will just smoothly walk right off of the crankshaft.
Notice the piece of wood lodged into the crankshafts rotation. This is to make the crank stop so you can get the balancer off. If you use a 2 prong puller like me, make sure you center it nice. It will come off easier. It was brought to my attention after the pictures were taken that maybe that puller is a bad choice.
This is more in accordance with the Shop Manual. The puller pictured in the Tools List is the one you need. It knows it belongs there, so it will be kind of difficult to get off right now. In any case loosen the brass nuts completely. The Oil Pump is held in by a bolt with a locking nut.
If the crankshaft is in the way, just put your balancer back on as far as you can by hand and turn the crank until you have access. By the way, the Oil Pump is the thing that has 4 slotted screws on top and that screen thingy sticking out!
Get your wrench on the bolt and loosen it. You should easily be able to spin off both the bolt and the nut by hand after that. Remove the Dipstick Tube. You know, I have never found a good way to do that. Pliers and a very light hand with lots of patience is really the only thing that seems to halfway work. BUT, all is not lost even if you ruin it. Happens to have the same wall thickness, same tight fit into the block and it looks cool!
The Timing Gear Cover is held on by 8 short screws, and two longer screws that you can get to from the outside. Sadly, there are also two more hex head bolts on the inside as shown in the pic on the left.
We want to preserve that bolt head retainer tin so very lightly tap on the tab with a screwdriver and small hammer. Take it in steps and it won't break as easily. Once you have both of the tabs bent slightly outward, Use your wrench to remove the bolts. Again, you may have to turn the crank a bit to get the bolts out.
Remove all the bolts and the locking tin, clean everything thoroughly and put the hardware in a labeled ZipLock Bag. The Cover itself needs a little prep work before we move on. We need to remove the crankshaft seal that is embedded into the cover. Do not try to Gorilla this seal out of the hole with a big screwdriver hoping not to do damage to the cover! I set my bench Vise to about 4 inches open, then placed the hole in the cover over the open jaws, then with a punch lightly tapped all the way around until it came out.
You want to preserve the tightness of this cover to seal connection. Once the seal is out, tape the inside area of the hole where the seal will be pushed back in and blast the cover.
This will remove all of the gasket residue, old dirt and grime but preserve the tightness. A few things to note here, the pic on the left shows the timing cover removed. No big deal, just wanted you to see what it looked like after you did all that work! On the right is a picture of the removed Harmonic Balancer. This poor old engine was rode hard and put away wet.
Wet is a bad thing and you can see the pitting that has occurred where the Timing Cover seal rides on it. The grooves are very IFFY at this point and I will probably opt to put a stainless steel sleeve over the shaft just to be sure we have no front seal leakage.
Our ZipLock Bag system is beginning to look impressive and once we have all the tin completely re-worked, we will be able to really see the progress. The tin has turned out to be very time consuming. Lots of dents, holes, and unacceptable anomalies in these pieces. If you want something perfect, you just have to put in the time. It pays to do this in steps and do not move on to the next step until the other one is finished.
Too many steps being juggled can lead to missing something important. The camshaft will be replaced along with the cam's gear and all of the cam bearings. But when you pull it out, you will notice all of the journals it has to go through to get it in or out. Remember this because when installing it, it will be imperative that you take your time and be very careful not to ruin the new bearings.
To remove the cam, rotate the crank until you see two Phillips Head screws through the gear as shown on the left. These are the screws for the camshaft's retainer.
Remove the screws and then very carefully pull the cam with the gear still on it straight out. Clean the screws and put them in a separate ZipLock Bag. Even though we won't be using the old Cam or Gear, we need to retrieve the Thrust Plate. That's the plate that you removed the two screws from to release the cam to get it out.
To get to this important plate we need to press out the gear. I have found it very useful to have a 20 Ton Shop Press in the shop for removal of U-Joints and other things that are press fit. Although not used everyday, it's awful nice when something like this comes along. You want to also retrieve the crescent shaped key that helps keep it in straight. I just pryed it out with a screwdriver. Don't forget to save it for when you are ready to press the new gear on.
As you all know, devestechnet. This problem exists in the later years of the series, It has to do with the Motor Mounts and the fact that the newer engine was mounted differently. The good news is, Chevy kept the design of the engine the same as earlier years, so we can still use it with a minor modification. We need to address this while the engine is apart. You 'could' do it when assembled, but happens that we don't have to!
Looking at these pictures, you can see what we have to do. This is where the front motor mounts go in Of course, we could just use a different style bolt, but where would be the fun in that? The idea is when we are done, you won't be able to tell the difference between if Chevy did it, or YOU did it. Use a hand triangle file to really get those corners sharp.
The placement on these holes is pretty important. It aligns the engine left to right on the frame so it MUST be centered to the center of the engines crankshaft. To do this, we put the plate back on the engine temporarily and measure from the crankshafts cap bolts to find the center of the plate. To do this we remove the front crankshaft cap bolts and replace them with longer ones that we can screw in and have the head of the bolt high enough to grab the edge of the T-Square.
This allows us to get the T-Square straight and even. Transfer the center of the bolts head to the plate with a thin sharpie. Turn the T-Square over and do the same on the other side. Measure very exacting between your two lines and that is the very center of the engine.
Mark the center with a thin sharpie not shown. From the edge of the plate using the T-Square as the guide to compensate for its curve, measure using a Caliper to. Put a mark where it intersects with the engine cap line. Do this on both sides. In the picture we are using the upper part of the Caliper. Now draw a line all the way across the plate to each mark you just made.
From the engine center line, we need to place a mark at exactly 1. This is the 3. Never mind those erroneous dimples that are there, it was from an earlier trial. So happens, I have a good friend in Washington State who lives and breathes these engines and he was so kind as to send me a series of pictures to properly align these holes.
He uses a Chevy original plate that already had the holes drilled in the right place. You do not want to use the edge of the plate as a reference for anything because they differ enough to make them unreliable. Always measure from the face using a T-Square. It's a good idea to dimple the centerline as shown just for future reference.
Dimple the cross line intersecting between your 3. Once you have your holes drilled, we need to make them square. This is rather hard to do for a home garage mechanic like myself, but I use a Dremel tool with a Carbide Rasp and it gets the job done. The slower you go, the nicer it turns out. It's just a matter of making the hole that is there, square. That's all there is to it! The reason this is a popular idea is because if you forget to put that Carriage Bolt into that hole before you put the Timing Cover back on, you are in sort of a pickle.
Our engine is starting to look a little bare. Everything is now out of the block except a small tin shield, the pistons, rods, and the Crankshaft. So, this is a very important stage to do right. I am very happy the previous owner decided to leave the guts in the block. This is a step that needs careful attention to detail. Here is why Each piston rod belongs in the cylinder it was put in, in the first place.
It is not a good idea to put them anywhere else. But there's more We want to mark the rod and cap connection so that we know exactly how they go back together later. You can't just use a sharpie for this since the engine shop will clean and inspect them. This is where it is nice to have a nice number punching kit for stamping steel. They are relatively cheap and handy to have around the shop. Let's take a look at what is already done for us. Sometimes they are stamped already, but not always.
Upon close inspection it turns out this engine is marked every way we need it to be. This is a critical step and can't be omitted if you expect to have a really top-notch build. This means: The Piston Rods and also the Caps. On the side connection between each rod and cap on the same side, it should be marked twice, once on the cap and once on the rod itself.
In our case, the cap has a number in the middle on top as well. Each Crankshaft Bearing Cap. Since you can't confuse the very front and the very back, no numbers are needed, but the two center caps must be marked with an F for forward and R for rear. All of the text on these numbers are facing the same way. The F is on there, its just hard to see. But since there are only two, they would be hard to confuse anyway. Remove the bolts on each cap but leave the bolts with the cap they came out of.
Before you move on to the next cap, check to see if any shims are between the block and the cap. If there are, count them, write down the exact location they were in, and keep them with the cap in the location they were in.
You will want to tell your engine shop this when you take the engine to them. This particular engine didn't have any shims. None is good. Once the caps are off, place them in the order they were in on a table somewhere to prepare for cleaning. Now we have a crankshaft with the pistons still attached. Let's remove the piston rod caps. Never use metal on metal. Once the cap is loose, you can just pull it off. Chances are the bearings will fall out.
Other than inspecting them just to see how they wear, they are trash. Look carefully at the orientation of them though. You will see there is only one way of putting them on correctly. Once each cap is removed from the crankshaft, remove the nuts and let the piston drop away. Once all of them are done this way, your crankshaft is now free. This is a VERY heavy crankshaft and it's very important you don't drop it. Remove the crankshaft and stand it up in a corner somewhere.
Make sure it's in a place where nobody will touch it. It's not good to lay a crankshaft down flat any longer than you have to. To do this next step, you need to be able to get to the top and bottom of the engine block.
As nice as it would be to just push the pistons out the top of the block, we have to use a new tool first. If you run your fingers inside the cylinder, chances are very good that there will be a ridge at the top of the cylinder. This is because over time, the pistons push crud as far up as the top rings can push.
It can be so bad you simply can't get the pistons out. We do not want to ruin the cylinder walls by forcing anything, so let's get out our shiny new Ridge Reamer. The way this contraption works is, it adjusts to the size of your cylinder, then a single blade with a pad on one end cuts the ridge out of the cylinder. It only goes in the cylinder one way. Set it in place and turn the center bolt until the reamer is semi-tight in the cylinder. Using OIL very liberally, switch to the larger socket and turn the reamer in the cylinder.
Give it a few complete rotations, then tighten just a little since it should need it and do it again. After a few more times doing this, your ridge should be removed. Do not Gorilla anything, just smooth and easy movement until the job is finished. It's finished when there is no ridge left. When you have done that, the piston will slide right out. In the case of this particular engine, there was no ridge at all. This is the first time I have seen this.
They almost always need the ridge removed. We are not done preparing the block for the machine shop yet, but we are well on our way. Now we need to clean the rods, caps, everything you just removed. Still, one engine has an incredible history spanning 70 years of use.
The year marked the introduction of a new power plant from Chevy. After Chevy replaced its valve-in-head four-cylinder, the new cubic inch overhead-valve six-cylinder was used in all passenger cars from to These engines produced about 50 horsepower, with later versions producing up to 80 horsepower.
Chevy upped the ante in , releasing the newly designed cubic-inch Chevy inline six-cylinder. Sharing the same platform as previous generations, Chevy beefed up the with more displacement 3. The straight-six engine now made 85 horsepower. With the addition of a new cylinder head in , output was increased to 90 horsepower.
Nearly double the power of the original straight-six engine. Just nine years later, Chevy decided to complement their new PowerGlide transmissions with the cubic inch engines and stuff the whole package into their cars. To think that Chevy had tripled the output of this simple design in just over 20 years is astonishing.
Most famously, the original Corvette carried the from to Chevy also crammed the in every truck from to Although it is, in theory, a brief run of models to find these engines, they have a cult following if you need help sourcing one.
The Chevy can also be found in most GMC trucks spanning from to At the time, Chevy had to compete with other sports cars like the Nash Healey. The Healey had its own inline six-cylinder, which put out horsepower. Other competitors like the Cunnigham and Packard Caribbean used V8 platforms to propel them into the horsepower range. While the likes of Packard and Nash were churning out slightly higher power figures, the Corvette set itself apart with overall reliability.
Keeping an eye out for the Chevrolet or GMC trucks specifically is your best bet in finding a engine to help you with your restoration. While the Chevy is nothing to pay a second look at in terms of performance, durability is its selling point. Chevy engines are known to last well over 50 years if taken care of properly. Check if this part fits your vehicle. Contact the seller. Picture Information. Mouse over to Zoom - Click to enlarge. Have one to sell? Sell now - Have one to sell? Shop with confidence.
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